Forever Falls - Trip Report

25-26 February 2023
Leader: Luen Warneke
Participants: 2

Only two of us signed up for this remote overnight exploratory trip to an unnamed waterfall in Girringun National Park, and from the outset, we knew it was going to be a hard slog.

Before starting, we stopped at the Wallaman Falls lookout to admire the huge escarpment and the famous falls nearby. We then saw an echidna on the remaining drive into the trailhead. It was a good reminder of just how wild and rugged this country is. From there, we shouldered our packs and began the off-track hike towards the hidden waterfall.

Although the distance to the falls was relatively short, the terrain made every metre hard-earned. Vegetation was among the thickest we had encountered in the area, likely worsened by recent cyclone damage that had opened the canopy and encouraged dense regrowth. Wait-a-while covered the ground in thick tangles, and our progress slowed to roughly 400 metres per hour. It was slow, frustrating, and exhausting work, with secateurs proving absolutely essential. We also found a couple of leeches on us along the way, just to add to the fun. And my sectetours also broke...

With a late start and incredibly slow progress, it took us most of the day to reach the top of the falls. Along the way, Graham somehow lost the lid to his Jetboil, though neither of us knew exactly where. By the time we reached camp, we were more than ready to stop. Campsites were limited, and the granite near the top offered very little flat ground.

Graham had brought a brand-new ultralight hammock for the trip and was looking forward to a more comfortable night than usual. Unfortunately, that plan did not last long. Early in the night, a loud thud rang out through camp as the hammock failed completely, splitting in two and leaving Graham with no option but to spend the night on the rocks. Unsurprisingly, sleep did not come easily for him after that. Luen did not fare much better, with a tent squeezed onto uneven, rooted ground and barely enough flat space to lie properly. Thankfully, at least the weather stayed dry.

That evening, we flew the drone over the escarpment to get a proper sense of the waterfall and cliff line - something that is impossible to fully appreciate from the ground alone. The cliff and waterfall are around 270 metres high, and seeing the landscape open up from above gave us a spectacular perspective on this hidden corner of the park. Later, we lay on the cold granite slabs and ate dinner by head torch, tired but happy to finally be there.

The next morning, we walked carefully down to the top of the falls. Standing at the brink of such a massive vertical drop was surreal. The sheer scale of the cliff face was hard to comprehend, and it felt like standing at the edge of something much bigger than yourself. We needed to respect the edge, and one wrong step would have severe consequences.

After taking in the views, we packed up and began the return journey. The walk out was much the same as the way in - slow, thick, and demanding. Navigation through such dense rainforest is never straightforward, and moving efficiently is almost impossible. Fortunately, when we reached one of the creek crossings, we arrived at exactly the same point where Graham had dropped his Jetboil lid the day before. "Good navigation, Luen," Graham said, impressed, as the missing lid was recovered.

Back at the car, we made one final stop at the Wallaman Falls lookout before beginning the two-hour drive back to Townsville. We saw a snake and the mandatory cows on the drive out. It had been a tough and tiring overnight adventure, but also a memorable one. Between the thick rainforest, the remote campsite, the towering hidden waterfall, and the mishaps along the way, this was one of those trips that felt like a proper wilderness adventure from start to finish. It was hard work, but that is often what makes these exploratory trips so rewarding.

- Luen