Paluma to Bambaroo two day bushwalk
A challenging rainforest trek from Paluma village to Bambaroo via Mt Spec and the Bambaroo Track. Highlights include Crystal Falls, Wilfred’s hut, golden bowerbird bowers, giant strangler figs, leeches, snakes, and a Frosty Mango ice cream finish.
The weekend’s activity was a two day bushwalk from Paluma to Bambaroo along rainforest tracks. Route starts from Paluma village, hike along rain forest tracks to Mt Spec and overnight near there, then next day hike down the Bambaroo track to finish 8 km north of Frosty Mango on the Bruce Hwy. Concurrently on Saturday we had a one day bushwalk for those who would start with the two day group but split off at Crystal Falls and finish at Paluma dam. Logistics involved pre-positioned vehicles for the end of the walk for the car shuttle back to cars at the Paluma.
Saturday morning, whilst most headed for Paluma, three cars left earlier to set up the pre-position vehicles for the end of the walk. 0745 three cars meet at Elanora Creek on Bruce Hwy, north of Frosty Mango, and position two vehicles for end of walk. Then drive up to Paluma to meet the others.
0840 we start hiking from Paluma village. Onto the rainforest track past the village weir, then onto the National Park track to Cloudy Creek. Across Cloudy Creek, short rock hop, and hike along rainforest tracks. Pass the first golden bower bird bower. Reach Ethel Creek top falls at 1000. A good morning tea spot.
1030 depart the falls. This next section is a long undulating hike, and need to carry water for 2-3 hours. We stop at half-way creek which is dry, but a nice ten minute break spot. Good strangler fig tree here. We continue on, and climbing a gentle rainforest slope, three pups come running along the track towards us – the first sights us and heads into the forest, the other two screeched to halt, turn and run away along the track. Looked like dingo pups. Thinking a parent must be nearby, good idea to arm self with a stick. With calls of ‘are we there yet’, and the standard reply of ‘just up a hill and around the corner’, we descend steeply to Stinky creek and cross over on a log. Nobody fell in, but the camera was ready just in case. Then a steep climb out of the creek, cross a dry creek, to reach the Paluma Dam-Crystal Falls track junction. A short 20 minute hike down the track to reach Crystal Falls for a late lunch at 1330. Here we meet another two of our day walkers who hiked in direct from the dam. The orchids are in flower. After a good lunch some explored the main waterfall, very impressive. Some just slept at the main pool, not excited by a great waterfall.
1430, we bid farewell to the day group who go back to the dam and the car there. The rest of us, with full heavy stomach from lunch, ascend the steep climb out of Crystal Creek, moans of ‘why did eat so much’ were heard. Twenty minutes and the climbing pain is over, we reach the junction with the Bullocky Toms track. Nobody is keen for a quick 1 hour deviation to Gold Creek falls. Along the track heading for Mt Spec, rock hop across Crystal Creek, thankfully the rocks are dry today, then more undulating track walking. We reach Johnstone’s Clearing for a short break. Continuing, nearing our overnight stop, we enter the old tin mining race area. Shortly after at 1545 we arrive at Wilfred’s hut for our overnight stop. Approx 14 km hiking today.
Three of us brave the chilly creek pool for a swim; the others will wait for a hot shower later. Five of us then go for a short walk to explore the wine cellar (old tin mine cavity), then Garde's Battery site, and up the mossy ferny creek to the water supply source. Return to the hut, must be happy hour, so refreshments are eagerly opened and consumed. Wilfred had the fire going and hot showers are available for the softies. Another good night at the hut. One native rat (Fawn-footed Melomys ?) was running around, and caught in the trap and relocated. During the night another was caught in the trap, and making too much noise, keeping us awake, was relocated outside. At 0130 there was a heavy shower of rain. Later there was another shower.
Sunday, we awake to a damp misty morning. We planned that there is no water resupply today, so we carry water for the day. We start hiking at 0815, with the hill climb to get the heart pumping. It was an ethereal like morning, hiking in dark wet rainforest shrouded in mist, with numerous bird calls throughout the forest. Quick inspection of an impressive golden bower bird bower. Along the way good fungi is seen, which some madly photograph. Numerous epiphytes are also seen. Continue through misty rainforest, we reach Garde's lookout. The view with low cloud and mist was impressive, with islands and the coast also visible. There were some leeches here, and I had one tick. Coming down from the lookout, two had falls on the slippery rocks.
Shortly we arrive at the start of the Bambaroo track. This track has not been used for a year, so we expect to find some overgrown parts. Wilfred calls ‘get your secateurs ready!’. With promise of all downhill except for one hill after morning tea, we start the descent down the track. After twenty minutes, at 1005 we arrive at a short side track and the morning tea spot, a small mossy creek. Surprisingly it had good water flow, we expected it to be dry. This is the only water supply point on the Bambaroo track. Wilfred is going crook about something, admonishing someone for not passing the Tim Tams - we realise somebody still has a packet of Tim Tams in her pack. These are then eagerly consumed by all, providing good energy for the day. 1030 we get moving, a scrub turkey has built a nest on the track. Later we find cassowary droppings on the track, some recent. The track is overgrown in places, and we have to clear our way through many times. Some spots there is significant overgrowth or downed vegetation, predominantly wait-a-awhile. Across the saddle, then the climb up the hill to the ridgeline. By now the sky has cleared and it is a nice sunny day, but not hot, good walking conditions.
At top of the ridge, we start the long descent. The vegetation changes from rainforest to grass trees and she-oak, a nice change. The track is hard to follow in this area and must be diligent to stay on it. Our way is blocked by a large black snake basking in the sun light. At 1215 we arrive at a rocky outcrop with nice view, a good lunch spot. Lunch is supplemented by ‘Dark Chocolate Rum and Raisin’. At 1300 we move on, then into more rainforest and wait-a-while, to reach a large strangler fig tree. But also the first stinging tree (gympie gympie) is sighted. It is slow progress as we constantly need to clear the track. Finally, we get down to the buttress tree area where the undergrowth is clear. Some great trees in this area, and first of the giant strangler trees is seen. There are different types of strangler figs and buttress trees in this area. We hear dingoes howling, not too far away. After a short break, we proceed down to the really giant magnificent strangler fig tree. We are of insignificant size against this tree. There were two others very close by but destroyed by Cyclone Yasi.
Not far to go now, thinking the worst is over, we head for the finish. Well, so we thought. After five minutes, we have no track, and a wall of jungle and twisted mess lies in front. We search for an easy way, but no joy. We can see the dead tree ahead towering above, and we know we need to be just to the left of that. But how to get there ? Wilfred goes right and disappears. I go back to the last track marker which indicates the direction the track should be in, and with the group following, start bashing our way through crap in that direction. Wilfred comes in from the opposite direction, which between us clears the path quickly. I was glad to get through that crap. We are now in known stinging tree area, and point out the numerous stinging trees to warn others. Then the track is in lantana country. Leading along, I feel a sensation on my fingers - I know what that means - damn stinging tree, must have brushed one I didn’t see. Go back a few metres and as I am about to say ‘watch out’ I hear Wilfred say ‘stinging tree’, and yes, his hand found it too. It was smaller and less visible than the others. Bit more lantana clearing, then into the sugar cane grass paddock, a thick tangled matted tall mess, but this year found a way along the side so not too bad (better than last year), then long grass (head high) for a hundred metres, to reach the vehicle track at the comms tower at 1550. All but over. A brisk 35 minute walk down the steep dirt road, to reach the cars at 1620. Approx 10 km hiking today.
The passengers get it easy, being dropped off at Frosty Mango to spend over an hour there, while four us go in one vehicle back to Paluma to retrieve the other three vehicles. Then back to Frosty Mango, just made it in time for an ice cream. Home at 1900. The end of a very good weekend.
Notes: Bambaroo track is shown in Google Earth and many mapping apps based on GIS data. Near the bottom end of the track if perusing Google Earth, we go onto what is marked as Housten Track to the end of walk. Google Earth displays several of the other old tracks in the Mt Spec area as well (Bullocky Toms, Foxlees, Pugh’s, Shays, etc). Accuracy of tracks marked on Google Earth is not validated and doubtful in some cases compared to current track network and is not to be relied upon for navigation.