Puzzle Creek June 2015
A classic three-day bushwalking adventure from Puzzle Creek to Running River, featuring waterfalls, sandy campsites, gorge views, tricky scrambles, and slippery rocks in the rain. A challenging but rewarding journey through rugged North Queensland terrain.
For some time I have been eyeing off a waterfall marked on the map on upper Puzzle Creek. It is well upstream of our usual Puzzle route. Through Wilfred we arranged to camp and start a three day point to point adventure from upper Puzzle Creek to Horseshoe Bend on Running River – and the waterfall I have been eying off is only 500 metres below start base camp site at ‘the homestead’. So with a long weekend, 11 bushwalkers, with 3 base campers in addition, assemble at ‘the homestead’ on Saturday. Plan is to base camp Saturday at ‘the homestead’, set up car shuttle, Sunday start a two day walk from here all the way down Puzzle, then into Running River either over the bread knife and the leap of faith across Running River, or by pack swim across the big confluence Puzzle/Running pool, then up Running River Gorge to Running River Falls, up the falls rock face, then up the river to the finish at Horseshoe Bend on Monday afternoon.
Saturday
9 am meet up at Paluma, and then drive west about 2/3 way to Hidden Valley, then off the road down a 4 km dirt track. Leave two non 4WD cars at the gate, and then proceed down the rough track and across Puzzle Creek ford to arrive at ‘the homestead’, camp site for Saturday night. Really – the X Trail should have had a go at going all the way shouldn’t it – it needs to toughen up ! Set up camping arrangements, some under the homestead roof, other in tents or in cars. 11 am we set up the car shuttle positioning two cars at Horseshoe Bend on Running River for walk end. Charley will bring Wilfred’s troopie down on Monday for the extra capacity we require. Back at camp, then the briefing on the toilet system – nobody wanted latrine duty. Some said they preferred to be constipated for three days. Use bucket, bit of ash, then empty bucket into compost bin when leaving – what is so bad about that ?
After lunch was explore time, some off in search of Surprise Mine, the rest down to the waterfall. Both groups had enjoyable afternoon exploring respective locations. At top of the impressive waterfall, which exceeded my expectations, we discussed options for going down the rock face, but no takers (despite recent indoor rock climbing training – something about no belay here and no hand or foot holds) , so went bush to get to base of the falls then further down the creek in the gorge area below the falls. Water flow was low, but more than a trickle. ‘How far we going?’ was asked – ‘just to look around the next bend’ was the usual reply. Groans emanated – apparently some think that ‘the next bend’ never arrives, or it means long long way to go. It is important to see what is around the next bend or over the next hill ya know – might be something good there ! There were murmurs of happy hour back at the camp, and I could feel the mutiny brewing.
Back at camp, happy hour commenced. Well, first it was surprise time, as ice creams were handed out – yum, great idea. It was a chilly late afternoon, we got a fire going, and as night set it was good around the camp fire. Talk ranged from magic pills to various other subjects – lot of toilet humour too.
Sunday
Break camp, a chilly clear morning, we start the walk at 8 am. Briefing is ‘we have a long way to go, need a good pace’. Down the car track to Puzzle, then head downstream on right side, past a little ‘hut’ in the creek sand bed, down to the falls. Admire this area, around and down to base of the falls, then downstream. Leading, I said ‘we are now in virgin country’ – meaning, new area for me, no idea what lies ahead. But, from behind was the chorus of ‘ well you better be quick to catch a virgin if you see one up ahead’. Never thought of that, so I made a quick pace, just in case we could catch one. The creek flattened out, was easy going with usual mix of river rocks, sandbars, bit of light scrub. At 9:30 am smoko stop at a large sandy area which would be a good camp site for a large group. As we moved downstream more large sandy areas that would be suitable camp sites were passed. At 1050 am we arrived at the usual Puzzle entry point(near hill 756) from Harper’s - great timing - I planned (hoped) to be here around 11. Noticed that water level was lower than usual. I announced ‘ we are no longer in virgin country’. Appeared to be disappointment that we did not see a virgin back there. Ah well. Short break here, then got the mob moving.
Downstream, arrive at cable pool, where there was almost no water flow, which was strange because seemed bit more flow upstream at the first waterfall – but here bugger all. So chose to go the left hand side to be different this year, which looked easy, but became difficult, and was enjoyed by some but not others. Downstream to the usual lunch spot at the old honeymoon suite area at 12:15 pm.
1:15 pm, moving again, we cut the two big bends out as the creek was very low, dry in parts, which made the going easy and made great time. There is a large sandy area with good deep pool that is a good camp site for a large group on the second bend. We nicknamed someone ‘puddles’ because she often puts her boots inadvertently into ‘puddles’ – usually going over stepping stones or alongside sloping rocks. At 2:15 pm we are at Puzzle Falls, which had no flow. Had a break at the top, great views as usual. Cloud was coming in. Then around the right side for more great views of the waterfall face and the canyon, down to Thunderbolt junction and around to the camp site we have used past few years arriving 3:15 pm. 12.4 km to here.
Quick discussion, we can’t all fit in (which was planned for), so six stayed here and five were sent ahead led by Wilfred ‘ you can make Peters Gate and camp there – see you tomorrow morning’ was the guidance I offered. A furtive glance was cast my way ‘Peters gate? Hmhmhm’ – but is not a long way. They did it in 45 minutes.
Late afternoon was very cloudy, looked bit bleak, then during the night the skies cleared for great star views of the Milky Way. Later, the clouds rolled back in. Rosemary offloaded her vegemite chocolate (which we had been trying to avoid) onto us poor victims. We all got punished – wasn’t too bad though. To make up for it I offered strawberry cheesecake chocolate, which was appreciated by all !
Monday.
5 am – that sounds like light rain on my tent. Yep. Oh boy, this could be a fun day I think. I let this mob sleep in today – 8:15 am walk start. Lay there thinking of scenarios and different plans with this wet weather. Packing up, the drizzle stops, sky clears, so I announce ‘ this will burn off, all good’. Just before we start, another cloud bank rolls in with more drizzle. To the south dark cloud loomed, and a great rainbow shined in the sky.
8:15 we start, cross the creek, to avoid wet rocks in the creek we go overland, up the ridge other side, to follow the ridgeline on south side of Puzzle. Easy going through light scrub. Good views down into Puzzle. Chose this side so I can see into the creek just in case the other mob camped before Peters Gate. About 2/3 the way along, a gully forces us down so we head for the creek. Along the creek bank over wet rocks for a bit, then cross over to walk along sand until we reach the rocky part, 200 metres from Peters Gate, which was wet. Looking up, I can see a narrow kangaroo pad that I think we can ascend to the ridge line, so up I go. Loose friable surface, very narrow up sloping ledge line, nothing to grip onto, they heard me say ’oh, this is not good !’ , so only Brett follows. Phil takes the ladies along the creek bank and the wet rocks. Brett and I move quickly along the open ridgeline to arrive at Peter’s Gate to meet the other mob. Shortly after Phil arrives with the ladies. Peter’s Gate falls was not flowing, and the pool did not look as good as it usually does, albeit the area still impressive. Light rain starts again – the day would be like this, light drizzle rain, then clear for fifteen minute, just as the rocks start to dry out, then the rain would drift in again.
Decide that Running River Gorge is not feasible in these wet conditions, so with great disappointment no pack swim or gorge traverse today. Overland route it will be. I suggest that the newbie’s could pack swim across Peters Gate pool for practice, but they were not keen.
After a nice smoko break, we go up onto the ridgeline and walk through light scrub towards Running River Falls, via three vantage points along the way for great views of the gorge. Pass through the grass tree forest. Arrive upstream of the falls, descend onto the river rocks, but they are slippery so decide we can’t get to the top of the falls safely, so back up to the scrub for lunch. During lunch light rain seemed to be setting in, so I was looking at distance hills and ridgelines as options – not preferred though. But thinking the rocks below Harpers was going to be challenging in the wet. The rain stopped, sky cleared a bit, so decided to try the usual route across the river and up left side. After lunch we head upstream through light scrub for about 500 metres, then across the river rock platforms, dry stepping stones across the river. Keep going on the left side over sand and rocks to the rapids below Harpers’, where I knew the fun would start with the intermittent rain making the rocks slippery. We navigated a safe route, found a way to step across the river, then at last off the rocks to reach Harper's at 2:30 pm.
It had been a trying day of difficult conditions, but we still made good time and did it safely. We had an excellent group. Despite being a large group we made good time over the whole trip. Today was 8.6 km from the first camp site.
Charley arrived with Wilfred’s troopie. We had a chat with Eddie, looked at some of his mining equipment. Then sort out the cars – who is going with whom, where re-meeting (which was the hardest part of the whole trip – we can walk in remote country, navigate, deal with difficult situations, but try and sort out cars - nup!). Anyway, the troopie went back to ‘the homestead’ to pick up two cars left there, while the other two cars went direct back to Paluma for a cup of tea. Once again we enjoyed hospitality of Suzanne and Wilfred with post trip tea and biscuits, on a cold and wet afternoon in Paluma. Then it was the drive home, arriving back in Townsville at 6:10 pm. Another great trip with a difference on the classic Puzzle Creek bushwalk.
There are several options for variations on this walk or in this area using the large sandy camp site areas we passed. Between ‘the homestead’ and Puzzle Falls there are several large group camp site areas. After the falls/Thunderbolt junction, there are only small camp sites suitable for about six small tents each site.
KD