Pine Tree Track, North Johnstone River - Trip Report

Date: Monday 26 June 2023
Leader: Luen

The Pine Trees Track in Wooroonooran National Park is a memorable exploration of the wild North Johnstone River and its hidden waterfalls. Most of the hikers that joined for the trip were the Cairns crew, making for a strong and experienced group keen to explore one of the more remote corners of the Wet Tropics.

We met at the somewhat hidden trailhead, where pink tape marked the start of the route. This faint, purple dashed track shown on QTopo as the Pine Trees Track, has been cleared and remarked in recent years, but it still feels very much like a forgotten path disappearing into dense rainforest.

From the start, the track dropped steadily down through thick tropical vegetation towards the North Johnstone River. The descent was steep in places, with roots and loose soil keeping everyone on their toes as we worked our way down to river level. Before long, we arrived at the broad rocky banks of the North Johnstone - a powerful river winding through pristine rainforest. This stretch of river is known crocodile habitat, so we kept a careful watch and stayed well clear of the water's edge where possible.

The next challenge was making our way upstream along the river. Progress involved weaving through thick vegetation and scrambling across large granite slabs along the riverbank. At one point we even spotted a green canoe sitting abandoned beside the river - a curious sight in such a remote place.

Crossing the North Johnstone River was always going to be the crux of the day. Before the trip, Luen had spent time studying aerial imagery to identify potential crossing points, which proved invaluable once we reached the river. After scouting around, we found a spot that looked manageable and quickly waded across to the other side.

Once safely across, we continued a short distance upstream before entering a small tributary that led us towards the first waterfall of the day. After a short scramble up the creek, we arrived at a beautiful two-tier waterfall split by a ledge halfway down. The formation immediately reminded Luen of Amphitheatre Falls along the Russell River. Later we discovered that this waterfall is known as Split Falls, which feels like a fitting name for the way the cascade breaks in the middle.

While exploring around the base of the falls we were surprised to spot an echidna among the rocks - a strange place to encounter one, but a reminder of how rich these rainforests are in wildlife.

After spending some time enjoying the falls, we returned to the North Johnstone River and continued downstream to the next tributary. Following this small creek inland led us to our second waterfall of the day, Cave Falls. This one was completely different in character - an elegant curtain of water dropping over a rock overhang into a quiet pool below. The overhung rock wall gave the waterfall its name and created a beautiful sheltered amphitheatre beneath the cascade.

With two spectacular waterfalls explored, it was time to head back. Returning to the North Johnstone River, we chose a nearby crossing point to get back to the original side of the river. It wasn't quite as ideal as the upstream crossing, but it was close and looked manageable.

This crossing turned out to be a little more exciting. The current pushed a few people off balance, and a quick swim through the small rapid helped some members reach the other side. For the stronger, confident swimmers it was straightforward, while others needed a bit more effort, but everyone made it across safely.

Once regrouped, we began the long climb back up the Pine Trees Track. The steep ascent out of the river valley was a solid workout after a full day of river scrambling, but spirits were high as we emerged back at the vehicles. A big thanks to everyone who joined the walk and made it such an enjoyable adventure.

- Luen